In this post I continue with the engine rebuild. I install the new bearings and seals in the engine casing and then install the main shaft, counter shaft, and shift drum from the transmission. I also install the crank and then seal up the engine casing.
There was nothing wrong with the old neutral switch (that I could see), but since you have to split the engine casing to replace one of the two parts, and the parts were cheap, I decided to change them anyway.
The neutral switch comes in two parts.
The part on the left goes on the shift drum and the part on the right goes through the engine casing.
The old neutral switch contact on the shift drum. It looks fine, but since I have the case split open, I may as well replace it.
This is the old neutral switch contact. The tab is bent over inside the hole to retain it on the drum. I used a small screwdriver to lever it off.
With the new wiper installed, I used a punch to fold it over.
Closer look at the folded over tab.
Next I check the alignment of the cam gear on the crank. The dot on the cam gear should be in line with the slot for the key, and the crank pin.
The "engineering" company that rebuilt the crank for me were rubbish (borderline incompetent) and charged me for a bearing they didn't supply, so I had to source the second crank bearing myself.
Good quality OEM part.
I don't have any anti-scuffing paste, so I put some assembly lube on the bearing before installing it.
Ready to install.
Getting the right size bearing tool from the set. You can use a socket if you like, but these are dirt cheap and the right tool for the job.
Bearing installed.
Crank installed.
Transmission, shift drum, shift forks, and shift fork shaft installed.
Testing the transmission to make sure it will shift through the gears.
Cleaning up the other half of the case. Removed the gear shift level seal.
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Then cleaning it out ready for the new seal to go in.
Good quality SKF double lip seal.
The is size is 14x28x7. This is for the gear shift shaft.
I install the seal using a seal driver.
Next need to install this counter shaft bearing into the right half of the case.
Good quality SKF bearing.
Little bit of assembly lube to help it go in without galling.
Installed easily enough.
And it was at this point I realised I should have installed the kick start shaft before I put the transmission in. I'm adding kickstart to this engine, it didn't originally have it so the manual doesn't tell you to install it first.
After taking the transmission and shift drum out, I have room to get the kick start shaft installed.
With no instructions it took a little while to get everything installed correctly (at least I hope it's correctly installed).
And then I had to reinstall the transmission, shift forks, shift fork shaft, and shift drum.
Cleaned the casing ready for the counter shaft (sprocket) seal to go in.
Seal lubed, just need driving home with the seal driver.
We're ready to put the two halves together. Just need to prep the two halves.
I like to use some non-setting (so it won't clog up any oil galleries if there's any squeeze-out) gasket sealer to hold the gasket in place so it doesn't move around.
A very light skim on the case mating surfaces.
One half ready for the gasket.
And so is the other half.
Gasket in place. Need to tear the gasket where the cylinder goes. I will trim this with a knife later once the cases are bolted together.
I lubed up all the shafts and the fork rod to help it slide home without issue. I also lubed the inside of the counter shaft seal too.
A couple of (very light) taps with a rubber mallet and the gap closed up. Nice.
Seal still in one piece. This was my biggest worry as I've damaged one before putting the case back together. Made sure the shaft was lubed and the seal wasn't installed too deep into the case.
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